On this page you'll find info about how to restore a Camaro, I'll cover a lot of different years of cars. We'll have pictures and descriptions of all procedures of the restoration process, from tear down to rust repair , body & paint and electrical. We'll cover each step from beginning to end so you'll understand what's involved in the restoration of your car. It's my opinion that people that want to restore a car need to know what their going to undertake, and that the process can be quite lengthy and cost a lot of money, so be sure that you want to do the job. One of the first things that I'll tell you is this, a restoration shop really can't put a bid on the work. This is due to the fact that, they never know what their going to find when they tear the car down, this is with any car that you might want to restore, this is why I say that you need to really love that car, cause it will cost you a lot of time and money to bring it back to it's original state. If you love the car then none of this will matter to you, maybe your restoring the car for nostalgia, or you just like the way the car makes you feel when you drive it. There are a lot of things that have to happen when a car gets restored. Keep in mind that a restoration shop isn't looking to find more things to fix on your car, they'd prefer to find less, cause they'll still make money, their not making money by having that car in their shop for a long period of time. It's their job to make sure that everything is like new when it leaves their shop, and this can be a don ting task for the shop. These shops have to do every thing possible to insure that your car is the way you want it when it's done. 
Disassembly
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We're going to learn a lot in this section, so bear down.
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year or two from now and wish you had saved those old parts.
Enough preaching already. Down your last cup of coffee or hot chocolate, put down the sports section of the paper and head out to the garage. The Camaro of your dreams awaits you.
EXTERIOR TRIM
FRONT SPOILER
On 1967-77 models so equipped, re- move the front spoiler. On 1967-69 models, unbolt the three support struts and retaining nuts and bolts from the front valance panel and fender extensions. On 1970- 77 models, there are just two support struts-one at each outboard end with nuts and bolts through the front valance. The spoiler is a 3-piece unit on 1974-77 models. Getting the spoiler out of the way gives better access to the front bumper.
FRONT LICENSE BRACKET
Odds on this item being reusable vary between s1im and none. However, they are available from aftermarket suppliers. Un- bolt the license plate first. Then, depending on model year, remove the screws which hold the bracket to the valance panel and/or the front bumper. The license bracket is built into the urethane cover on 1978-81 models.
FRONT BUMPER
Before you do anything, find the bumper-to-bumper bracket bolts on the rear face of the bumper and give them a liberal dousing with penetrating fluid. It'll also kill any spiders that may be lurking there as well. Tap the bolts lightly with a hammer, then let the penetrant soak in for 10-15 min.
On 1967-73 models, teach up behind the bumper and remove the nuts for the bumper carriage bolts. On first-generation Camaro's with front bumper guards, re- move these first; the Federally mandated bumper guards on all 1973 non- RS Camaro- as cannot be removed until the bumper is. The 1970-73 RS obviously has two bumperettes. Keep in mind that the outboard brackets for all 1967- 73 Camaro's are sandwiched in between the fenders and valance panel or fender extensions.
With 1974-77 Camaro's, you have two options: remove just the aluminum basher bar or take out the entire bumper assembly. To remove the aluminum bar alone, remove the two bolts retaining each out- board end to the brackets and four nuts
retaining the center of the bar to the brackets, then lift off the bumper bar. If you want to remove the whole shooting match, unbolt the valance panel. Then get a floor jack to support the bumper assembly (over 100 Ibs!) and a friend to keep it balanced on there while you crawl underneath. Un- bolt the bumper assembly (leaf springs, supports, braces and all) from the sub- frame and radiator support and carefully lower it to the ground.
On 1978-81 models, the bumper is integrated into the soft fascia nose piece and really need not be removed for painting. If you need to remove the nose piece to repair it or to gain access to remove the front end sheet metal.
Remove all nuts with a hex socket to avoid rounding off the flats. If the nuts are rusted in place, chances are the carriage bolt will break and you'll be home free. However, if your toast always lands jelly side down, the bolt won't break but the square portion of the bolt will spin in the bumper.
If this happens, find the exact center of the bolt head and mark it with a center punch. Then drill into the mark 112-in. deep with a 1/8-in. drill bit. This allows you to make sure you're in the center of the bolt head and acts as a pilot for the second drilling operation. Provided everything's alright, use a 3/8-in. drill bit to drill a 1/2-in.-deep hole using the first hole as a pilot.
When you've finished drilling, insert a 5116-in. or 3/8-in. punch into the bolt and hammer it out. Just don't get over- enthusiastic and nail your car with the hammer.
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This is some good info to learn and know if your considering buying a car on the net.
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